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Try to buy a wand with amplify damage charges from Akara or any of the other wand NPC's and put that on your switch. Now if you REALLY want to stick with your Melee Assassin, you can also break physical immunities relatively easily if the other monsters are giving you no trouble. Sorceresses do not require a lot of great gear to survive Hell mode, and in turn make it much easier to magic find and get better items which can help your Assassin. What I do strongly recommend to do, rather than re-spec your Assassin, is to put it on hold and instead make a Sorceress. Possibly Chaos Sanctuary runs, though this may be a bit slow.Do Countess runs in Act 1 to farm runes, transmute them, and make lower end runewords.Things I suggest you do if you take this route are: Although there's a large amount of monsters with lightning immunity in Hell, making it difficult to get very far without "super great items", this will help you easily do magic find runs on Nightmare mode until you get better gear. One thing you can try to do is to re-spec into a Trap Assassin, primarily using the Lightning sentries to kill monsters. You could probably do some sort of fun PvM build by making a bear sin (Beast runeword weapon with Pride helm and/or shield), though those pieces of equipment are quite expensive. In general, melee Assassin builds are better served for PvP rather than PvM. Pretty much all builds will struggle in Hell without some decent gear to put on your character. Unfortunately, Diablo 2 is a very, very item dependent game, which is probably why you are struggling on Hell mode. Break the boxes closer to the center and bottom, the top ones can disappear on their own when the chips fall out. They all appear at the same time here, but are on different sides, so you have to destroy many boxes that get in the way and clear a path for all donuts at the same time. In 25 turns, it's up to you to get four doughnuts down. And later go down to the lower ones, that's the secret of success. On the right side of the screen, destroy the koloboks to fill the field with carpet. You need to collect 32 apples and spread the carpet over 40 squares of the field. Level 64 in Homescapes is a difficult level. The rocket does not destroy all frozen chips, but only those with cherries, so use it if you can. If possible, collect the bomb, it is much faster to destroy what you will destroy manually for a long time. After that, finish collecting the cherries that are further away, that is, closer to the edge. Start the level by breaking chains on those tokens that are closer to the center - that way you'll collect apples faster and automatically collect cherries that are around apples. The difficulty is that this is a movable field, and it's not rectangular. There is a limited number of moves - 32, and you need to collect 17 cherries and 16 apples. Therefore, if you have a large number of mugs or buttons, it is necessary to break these very objects. Remember that the light ball can increase the number of objects of the same color several times. To capture the largest piece of the field and make it green, you must move to the lawn, create a missile or bomb there. The main task is to collect donuts and carpets, to do this, make combinations on the playing field of six items and only for 25 moves, for which additional bonuses are given. Level 28 in the game Homescapes is also designed for wit and attention. Break the chains, be smart, and use the bonuses to pass this level. If you detonate a bomb on or near the mat, it will fill all the cells that are affected by the bomb. You need at least one chip to be on the carpet. If you collect chips behind the carpet, they won't extend it: you'll just waste a turn. They remove all pieces of the chosen color from the board.įollowing the tactics outlined above, beating level 122 should be a piece of cake.You need to fill all the squares with carpet. Hue bombs, which can be generated by matching five pieces of the same color, are one of the finest power-ups. Hammers are also useful power-ups because they can remove a single piece off the board. When engaged, it will collect a certain object off the board and transport it to the bottom. It is constructed by arranging five pieces of the same color in a T or L form. It clears an entire column or row of pieces when it is ready and operational. Making a bomb is as simple as aligning four pieces of the same color in a square shape. Power-Ups for Level 122īombs are one of the most popular power-ups at this level. Lastly, tap on the paper plane next to the remaining chained area, creating a power bomb that will clear the remaining chains, making you pass the level. This will make the color pieces flow down into the once chained area. Thirdly, tap the large color bomb which will create more bombs around the blockade, and together with the paper plane, they will simultaneously explode, breaking the chains surrounding the block. Secondly, match the blue pieces together, which will break one of the chains locking the block, making it more vulnerable and creating a color bomb next to the chain. Step 1įirstly, match the green pieces together, which will, in turn, match the yellow and blue pieces, creating a paper plane next to the chained blocks. Begin the level by removing the blocks that are in your way this will make more area for you to make matches. Clearing the blocks is one of the most useful techniques for this level. The new game plus feature further extends gameplay length by allowing players to replay the game with their acquired skills and unlocked content.
Kool Stop makes a great tool called a bead jack, which helps to pull the tire bead over the rim. You should never use tools to install the tire, but very tight tires may need some help. Staring at the valve, work the bead onto the rim using both of your thumbs. The outer bead is harder to install, although most tires can be re-installed by hand. Make sure you line up the valve stem with the rim’s valve hole.Ĭarefully fit the valve through the hole and place the cap on to keep it from falling out again. The first bead of the tire should fit easily onto the rim. Now inflate the tube so it is round and place it evenly into the tire. Peel the foil from the patch and press the patch onto the tube firmly, squeezing the patch tightly onto the tube. It is very important to allow the cement to dry completely. The thinner the cement, the faster it will dry. You want a thin, smooth coat of cement if you keep fiddling with it as it begins to dry, you’ll risk making it lumpy. Once buffed, avoid touching that area with your fingers.Īpply a dab of rubber cement, and then spread it into a thin coat, using your cleanest finger. If the molding line is running along the area where the patch is to be applied, you must sand it down completely, or it will provide an air channel. You need to buff the tube so that it is no longer shiny. Use the sandpaper or scraper provided in your kit to buff the surface of the tube for an area a bit larger than the patch. Select an appropriate sized patch for the hole. Now that the rim and tire are clear, it’s time to patch the tube. If the hole was on the inner side of the tube, inspect your entire rim to make sure there are no sharp burrs in the metal, and that the rim tape is properly protecting the tube from your spoke ends. Double check the entire inner side of the tire by running your fingers along the entire surface, feeling for obstacles along the way. If the hole was on the outer side of the tube, inspect the inner surface of the tire in that spot to make sure the object that caused the puncture is not still stuck in the tire. Once you’ve found the leak, take note of whether it is on the inner or outer side of the tube. As a last resort you can submerge the tube in water and watch for bubbles, but you’ll want to avoid doing this as you’ll need the tube to be completely dry in order for the patch glue to work. Listen carefully to the entire circumference of the tube you should hear a hissing sound that will indicate where the leak is. This will expand the hole making it easier to find. Inflate the tube to approximately twice its original size. Now remove the tube from the tire, and try to keep track of where it was positioned in relation to the tire. When the tire is loose enough you can just run a tire lever around the rest of the rim to pull the whole side over.Īfter you have removed one side of the tire, the other side should come off very easily. Now the middle lever should fall out, and you can continue the process. Insert another tire lever two spokes away from the first, and a third another two spokes away. Pry one side of the tire bead over the edge of the rim, and then hook the end of the tire lever to the nearest spoke. Choose a section of tire that is away from the valve and hook one of the tire levers under the bead, directly in line with one of your spokes. Now it’s time to remove your tire, one side at a time. This tutorial is based on a schrader valve, but I will be covering the different valve types in another tutorial. There are two main types of valve stems, a schrader valve and a presta valve. Remove the valve cap and fully deflate the tube by depressing the valve stem with the hooked end of your tire lever. With the wheel removed from your bike, inspect the outer surface of the tire to make sure there are no sharp objects like a thumb-tack or thorn stuck in the tread. Your patch kit should contain a few different patch sizes, sandpaper or a metal scraper, and a tube of glue. Required Toolsįor this tutorial you’ll need a patch kit, a set of tire levers, and an air pump. If done properly, a patch will work just fine. I personally recommend replacing a tube when you get a leak, but that is not always possible.
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